Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
